Dining in Oaxaca: 12 Essentials in Mexico’s Food Capital

OAXACA DE JUAREZ, OAXACA – Over 10,000 years ago, small tribes that had hunted and searched for food during the Ice Age settled into the Valley of Oaxaca and a life of farming the grains, vegetables and plants they had previously foraged. Over time, cooking and local food sourcing traditions from the indigenous Zapotec to the Mixtec blended with those of the invading Spaniards in the 16th century.

1. Oaxacan Cuisine: A Bounty of Culture and Taste

Today, Oaxaca is internationally renowned as one of the food capitals of Mexico (along with Michoacán, Puebla and Baja California), its cuisine named an “intangible” UNESCO asset in 2013. From the street, to the market, to the high-end hacienda, Oaxaca’s colorful and varied gastronomic offerings range from street pozole to modern takes on traditional Oaxacan cuisine at foodie restaurants such as La Catedral, Casa Oaxaca and Los Danzantes.

Mercado Benito Juarez, Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca, Mexico

Produce at Mercado Benito Juarez, Oaxaca de Juarez

2. Oaxacan Food Staples

Using ingredients such as corn, quesillo (Oaxacan string cheese), black beans, chiles, chocolate, grains, locally-sourced meats and a smattering of vegetables to make tamales, tlayudas, tacos, empanadas, moles and more, Oaxaca offers a variety of tastes that surprise the senses. Small artisanal and large corporate “palenques” (Mezcal refineries) operate just east of the city. The food and drink, very much like Oaxaca itself, is absorbed into your being and you become the place from the inside out. Such is the essence of good travel…and good eating!

Mercado Benito Juarez, Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca, Mexico

Moles at Mercado Benito Juarez, Oaxaca de Juarez.

3. Traditional Oaxacan Cuisine

Carina Santiago strives to keep Zapotec cooking traditions alive in her village of Teotitlan del Valle, just 30 minutes outside of Oaxaca de Juarez. Known for its colorful Zapotec rug weavers, Teotitlan is home to her and her husband’s restaurant, Tierra Antigua. Carina maintains a traditional Zapotec kitchen as well as a “modern kitchen” and serves traditional moles and other delicious staples. Her two daughters are learning Carina’s preparation and cooking techniques, and her son weaves rugs— a talent passed down from his father.

Tierra Antigua is located at Av. Juarez No. 175, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca. Price Range: Inexpensive-Moderate.

Carina Santiago, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, Mexico

Carina Santiago and her daughter Alicia in Carina’s traditional Zapotec kitchen.

4. Modern Takes on Oaxacan Cuisine

During our stay, we did treat ourselves to a “splurge night” (or maybe two), enjoying candlelit retreat, good Baja California wines and impeccable service after a busy day exploring the city’s cathedrals, museums and galleries. Our favorite destination was La Catedral. Providing a take on the traditional, the Lechón al Horno estilo Tehuantepec (Suckling Pig in Tehuantepec style) with Mole Coloradito and mashed potatoes is modern Oaxacan comfort food at its best.

Restaurante Catedral is located at Calle de Manuel García Vigil 105, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca, Mexico. Price Range: Moderate-Expensive.

La Catedral, Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca, Mexico

Suckling Pig in Tehuantepec style, La Catedral, Oaxaca

5. Taking It To The Street

Street food in Oaxaca is varied, delicious and very affordable, filling the air with smoky tantalization. Every night, vendors roll up in front of Mercado Benito Juarez near the zocalo and serve pozole, tostadas, tacos, tasajo (salted beef skirt steak), cecina (pork), tortas and more. Don’t be gun shy…I’ve never had a bad experience eating street food in Mexico. These folks want their customers to leave happy and return hungry for more!

Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca, Mexico

Tostadas and Pozole, Oaxaca de Juarez street vendors.

6. Mercado 20 de Noviembre Food Stalls

No trip to Oaxaca city is complete without a visit for a bite at one of the food stalls in the bustling Mercado 20 de Noviembre. As you dodge hungry customers, vendors, tourists and the occasional chicken, your nose will lead you to a number of sit down “fondas” (small food stalls) where you can choose from empanadas, tlayudas, moles, hot chocolates, flavored aguas and other local favorites. Most fondas share a similar menu, so just take your pick!

Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca, Mexico

Food Stalls at Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Oaxaca de Juarez.

7. Carne Asada at Mercado 20 de Noviembre

Near the food stalls of Mercado 20 de Noviembre, enter the smoky domain of the area known simply as “Carne Asada”. You’re given a wicker basket that you take to one of the numerous carne asada vendors (shown), who keep a selection of cured tasajo and Oaxacan chorizo on display for you to choose from. Your meat is grilled to perfection and brought to your table with tortillas, grilled onions, peppers, radishes, chiles and guacamole.

Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca, Mexico

Marinated Oaxacan Tasajo & Chorizo, Oaxaca de Juarez.

8. Chapulines (Grasshoppers)

Let’s get this out of the way…grasshoppers ARE eaten as part of the regular diet in Oaxaca. I bought a bag of them from a gentle, elderly Indian woman on the street at Oaxaca’s zocalo. Baked on a Comal, chapulines taste of salt, lime, a touch of chile and a bit of grass, the animal’s preferred diet. They are sold on the street, at markets, and prepared fried in olive oil with peppers and garlic in restaurants. You can even order chapulines as a pizza topping at Pizza Nostrano near Santa Domingo Cathedral.

Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca, Mexico

Chapulines (Baked Grasshoppers) at Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Oaxaca.

9. Holy Moles!

Oaxaca is known as the land of seven moles. Moles are a complex combination of ground nuts, seeds, spices, chiles, chocolate, herbs and other ingredients that ultimately combine with stock to create a creamy sauce commonly served over chicken or turkey. Mole types include Negro, Rojo, Coloradito (shown), Amarillo, Verde, Chichilo and Manchamantel (the “tablecloth stainer”). Rice is included to help sop up every delicious drop.

Restaurant and Galeria Tierra Antigua, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, Mexico

My favorite mole (Coloradito, or Red) at Restaurant and Galeria La Tierra Antigua.

10. Tlayudas

I couldn’t wait to try my first tlayuda, hoping it would be as fun to eat as it is to say. A large tortilla is baked on a Comal (heated plate), smeared with black bean paste and pork lard, and then topped with quesillo (Oaxacan string cheese), lettuce, avocados and carne (meat), if you’d like. My favorite, topped with spicy Oaxacan chorizo, was at Fonda Maria Cristina at the Mercado 20 de Noviembre.

Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca, Mexico

Tlayuda from Fonda Maria Cristina at Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Oaxaca.

11. Tamales Oaxaqueña

Traditional Tamales Oaxaqueña are served wrapped in banana leaves, such as those served at Le Catrina de Alcala in Oaxaca de Juarez (shown). The waiter opens them tableside to reveal a deep, rich, hearty, flavorful masa containing pork, chicken or other carne marinated in mole inside. Designed to create a portable meal for Zapotecs on the go, tamales are an original pre-Hispanic “fast feast”.

La Catrina de Alcala is located at Macedonio Alcalá 102, Oaxaca de Juarez, Mexico. Price Range: Moderate.

La Catrina de Alcala, Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca, Mexico

The traditional Tamales Oaxaqueña at La Catrina de Alcala in Oaxaca.

12. Mezcal

In addition to great food, Oaxaca is the home of Mezcal, made from burned piña of the Maguey cactus and typically served with “sal con gusano”, salt with dried extract of the Maguey worm. Mezcal is produced by small artisanal (shown) and large corporate palenques just outside Oaxaca. They produce distilled spirits for men and Mezcals with creams and fruit added for the ladies. I liked the Pechuga, a limited run Mezcal in which fruits are added and vapors passed through a chicken breast (pechuga) during the last of three distillations to mellow the smoky taste.

Palenque Dovgui, Valley of Oaxaca, Oaxaca, Mexico

Palenque Dovgui is a family-run operation in the Valley of Oaxaca.

As a global food capital, Oaxaca can’t be beat. Tradition and modern imagination combine in this magical Mexican destination in a burst of color and flavor. Whether the food stalls in the markets, a fine dining establishment, or from a vendor on the street, the variety of Oaxacan cuisine is unlimited, delicious and within your budget!

Your Gringo in Mexico,

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10 Comments on Dining in Oaxaca: 12 Essentials in Mexico’s Food Capital

  1. Ah-h-h, Oaxaca! I so loved it there on my only visit nearly thirty years ago. One of the things I remember best is the food. And then there’s the food. And Mercado 20 de Noviembre is simply one of the best markets I’ve ever visited.
    I see a return trip in my near future. Thanks!

    • Thanks for your comment Emilie! Oaxaca is fantastic, and the food is AMAZING. I doubt much has changed in the 30 years since you last visited and we are hoping for a return trip someday as well 🙂

      El Gringo

  2. Sandra L Costa // June 10, 2014 at 7:05 pm // Reply

    We are heading to Oaxaca City for Dias de los Murtos this year for my husbands 80th birthday! We are more excited than we’ve ever been. Counting down the days.

    • Thanks for your comment Sandra! Wow! We were going to go to Oaxaca in 2006 for Dia de los Muertos, but they had some problems with the teacher’s strike that year, so we ended up in Michoacan for the festivities instead. You will LOVE Oaxaca and the Day of the Dead. What a great way to celebrate your husband’s 80th! Have fun!

      El Gringo

  3. My mouth is watering like crazy! Oaxaca is definitely at the top of my list ofplaces to visit in my home country, and the food is one of the main reasons for it!

  4. Hi Scott, just email your link to this site to my daughter Deirdre, I invited her to join us this Christmas there, but gosh I have to moved on this most condos and homes are taken, lucky if I find a hotel. Your article is so rich of knowledge. I also encourage Deirdre and Mike to take a tour into Valle de Guadalupe, they love wine! hugs Juliet in San Felipe baja

  5. Reblogged this on The Frugal Foodie Blog at Gonzo Gourmands Social Media and commented:
    Since Diana Kennedy – – the “Julia Child of Mexican food” – – first championed the diversity of its regional cuisines, Americans have been slowly expanding their knowledge beyond Swanson’s frozen Mexican TV dinners and Taco Bell. Scott shares some great info on Oaxacan cuisine, which is known for its delicious moles and use of banana leaves instead of corn husks for tamales.

  6. hi! I love this article…I’ve been trying to buy Dovgui Mezcal but haven’t had any luck finding a phone number or email. would you have the contact info?

    thanks and happy travelling


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